Granada and the Sierra Neveda

There was a sliver of a moon and a bright star still in the clear sky as we left our apt. for the train. It was also a day of celebration-my husband, Michael's birthday. Somewhat apprehensive about all our connections to Granada and the mountains, we arrived in plenty of time to get train tickets, find the platform and stand with our amigos for coffee con leche and pan.

The sun rose serenely over the hills thirty minutes out of Seville. With the sun up, the highly techno- equipped train, gave us updated temp reading of 17C and the upcoming stops. The three-hour trip mostly through farmland and olive groves was restful and, as we approached Granada, the terrain turned from hilly to craggy mountains.

Our next challenge was to get to the bus station for the trip up to the Sierra Nevada. It was easy and we had time to eat again in a modern, clean bus station.

The windy, slow climb in a modern, air-conditioned bus was easy on my usually queasy stomach. We decided to settle in a town called Lanajron, known for its mineral water, spa, and being the gateway to the hill towns know as the Alpujarras.

Because it is a resort town (and it's winter), half the town was closed. The good news is rooms are cheap-for us -$35 with a full breakfast, a sunny balcony overlooking the mountains. We drank a lot of great water from spigots in fountains throughout this town which is unusual for Spain-water is scarce. We also had a spectacular view of the stars.

We brought clothes for the Antarctic but it was in the high 70's as we embarked on our first hike. Michael was very happy-his best birthday gift.

After Michael's birthday dinner, (Michael unknowingly ordered the local special-egg, cured ham, 2 kinds of sausages, a pork cutlet with potatoes and onions. Heavy on the fat and cholestral.) we stumbled onto a local dance-something out of a Fellini movie. Attendees were somewhere between 65-75 coming with canes and a bit of shuffling. Once in the door, they broke loose. Men and women, women and women dancing-laughter, clapping, and general joy to wonderful local music. Our hearts were warmed at the sight.

Throughout the 4 days, we hiked from one hill town to another-through forests, scrub brush, rocky terrain, orange and olive groves. Chestnuts, pomegranates, and fruit from cactus covered some of our paths. (No shortage of food if we were lost.) We never encountered another hiker, but we lunched with a herd of goats one afternoon. They took a fancy to the acorns from the oak tree we were under.

We have been so impressed with the kindness and politeness of the people here. When they pass our dinner table, they always nod and wish us a "good meal" or "buenas noche". They go out of their way to help us find the way.

This trip could never have been planned by a travel agent. Serendipity pays a big role in our best moments. Well, now we are back to Seville, classes, language study and more nightlife!

Hace Frio (cold) in Seville. I'm from Chicago and I know what cold is like--wind, freezing rain and sleet, -0 temps. When I arrived in Seville, the sun was shining and it was 80+. When we found our apartment, we asked about heat. Mr Gomez informed us that heat was not needed in Seville.

Soon afterward, our new friends warned us of the Frio in Seville-coming in November and December.

It is November 15 and the wind has turned a bit. In my stoic style, I said to Michael, "We can do this. Just put on layers-it's not Chicago cold." But it is 45-47 at night and in the sun around 60-65 in the day. But our apartment has no heat!!. It also has no sun to recover from the evenings' cool temps. So it is a bit chilly.

In the AM, I jump out of bed and put my Winter Silks and layer with a sweat shirt and scarf. I do a few stretches to warm up and then head for the kitchen to make Oatmeal (yes, Quaker is alive and well in Seville.). We eat our breakfast, a quick coffee and head for the door-to find the sun. In Seville, it is hard because of all the little windy streets and buildings. But we now know all the cafes and parks that have sun by 10 a.m.

Tonight we broke down and opened up the special drawer that houses "Diana" a red, (24" in diameter), round, little gem with a coil. It fits in a hole under our eating table and the special fire-proof table cloth covers it. We plug it in and-- yes, the coil works and it is warm. I snuggle under the table cloth to feel the warmth. Buenos noches. I am no longer Frio in Seville.

If you have any questions about the sabbatical I'm taking, e-mail me at mwfam@aol.com.